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• 10 oz or 12 oz Mildew, Water & Fire Treated.
• Relite: Polyester based fabric is extremely lightweight. Soft, pliable, easy to clean. Tear strength and longevity better than canvas. Water, mildew and fire retardent. Colors available are white. light green and tan.

1. Outfitter tents have canvas with a special heavy paraffin water, mildew, fire finished treatment that should make the Outfitter tent very water, mildew and fire resistant.
2. Stove jack with a weather flap in your choice of 4", 5", or 6" opening. Flap includes velcro and buckles. Stove jack is on left side in the roof as you enter the tent. Center of stove jack is 32" from left end wall and 24" from left side wall.
3. Full length ridge pole reinforcement with extra layer of canvas and additional reinforcement at the gable ends.
4. Outfitter tents eaves and bottom of tent have 18 oz truck vinyl with 1/4" rope sewn between two layers of canvas doubled stitched. This reinforcement is to ensure extra strength at all grommet locations.
5. Webbing at top of door for reinforcement.
6. End wall seams using six layers of canvas-double lock stitched.
7. Walls are a full five feet in height.
8. 7’6" doors have a heavy duty trouble-free YKK zipper with a generous weather flap that is secured by Fastex side release buckles. So easy to use. In mild weather, simply buckle the doors open and enjoy the great outdoors!
9. The bottom of the tent is reinforced with webbing and utilizes grommets instead of sewn-in stake loops to allow you to stake your tent from the in side or outside.
10. The sod cloth that is sewn onto the tent bottom extends a generous 12" beyond the tent floor to provide a weather-tight seal. Compatible with any terrain and weather condition, the sod cloth can be folded inside or extended outside the assembled tent.
11. There is a 6" ridge hole at each end of ridge for inserting lodge pole. When using an internal frame, a flap covers the holes.
12. Relite is a synthetic fabric. Using a propane stove or boiling water will cause condensation. A wood burning stove usually helps prevent condensation caused by breathing. Opening a window several inches also prevents condensation. Relite will not shrink 1-3% like canvas and no shrinkage reduction factor is required for an internal frame. Relite tents are much lighter for packing but you must determine if the reduced weight is worth the possibility of condensation inside your tent. Relite is as strong as canvas and retains heat inside the tent equal to canvas. However, sparks will burn a hole in a Relite roof much easier than canvas. If you purchase a Relite tent I recommend a fly to protect the Relite tent from sparks.
    1. Recommendation: Unless weight is extremely critical, I would recommend a blend tent (canvas roof and relite walls) if you want to reduce tent weight. The canvas roof allows the tent to breathe and reduces condensation, and reduces the possibility of a spark hole in the tent roof.
13. Relite colors available: white, tan or light green. Specify color when purchasing tent, if not specified tan will be shipped.
14. A DVD is provided that shows you how to set up and care for outfitter tents.
15. SEVERAL TENT COMPANIES NAME THEIR TENTS AS OUTFITTERS TENTS TRYING TO CONVINCE BUYERS TO PURCHASE THEIR OFF BRAND TENT. IF THE OUTFITTER TENT IS NOT SPECIFICALLY LABELED AS A MONTANA CANVAS TENT OUTFITTER, THE TENT IS AN OFF BRAND AND NOT THE SAME QUALITY OR WORKMANSHIP. THE OLD SAYING , BUYER BEWARE APPLIES.

18x23 with box and ropes and 16x23 or larger with floor will probably weigh more than 150 lbs. UPS has a 150 lb limit. Therefore the 18x23 will probably require shipment by truck which is two to three times as expensive. If a 16x23 tent can meet your requirements don't order the 18x23 to save shipping costs.

Sewn In Floor: Made of white laminated vinyl for strength and ease of cleaning. Nylon stake loops. Stove location on floor has a zipper for rollback of either the vinyl or relite sewn in floor. Relite tents have Relite floors, tan or white or white vinyl - you choose. Specify floor color when ordering - if not specified tan will be ordered. A tan relite floor is recommended as it will not show dirt as much as the white relite.

Wall Tent with Screen Door

Bow Rack

Gun Rack

STANDARD FEATURES AND OPTIONS

MONTANA TENTS
FIXED STEEL ANGLE KITS

ADJUSTBLE ANGLE KITS	Suggested Max Tent Length	WT	ALUMINUM ADJUSTABLE	STEEL ADJUSTABLE	SHIPPING lower 48 states
3 Rafters - 9 Angles	12'	8 lbs	$171	$170	$20
4 Rafters - 12 Angles	18'	11 lbs	$228	$225	$25
5 Rafters - 15 Angles	24'	14 lbs	$285	$280	$30
6 Rafters - 18 Angles	30'	17 lbs	$342	$335	$35
Porch Kit 2 Rafters - 6 Angles	6'	6 lbs	$114.00	$115	$15
Porch Kit 3 rafters - 9 angles		1 lbs	$171	$170	$20
Angle Only			Price	Price	Minimum S+H $10
Sleeves 6" long			$27	$36	$15

PORCH, COOK SHACK, TENT FLY & STAKE IN FLOOR

• Porch: 10 feet long, fully enclosed with screen on front. Relite or10.1 oz canvas. 2 foot overlap with tent on roof and sidewalls, with grommets for staking.
• Cook Shack: 12 feet long, fully enclosed, stove jack included. Relite or 10.1 canvas. 2 foot overlap with tent on roof and sidewalls, with grommets for staking.
• Tent Fly: 1 Foot over on hang each side of tent. Zipper opening for stove pipe. Does not include rope, tensioners or stakes.
• Stake in Floor: 13 oz white laminated vinyl with grommets. 5' x 5' zippered area for a stove. Relite tents have Relite floors - white or tan or a 13 oz laminated vinyl - you choose.

Wall Tent with Porch

Cook Shack

Screen Window Option

PRICES FOR PORCH, COOK SHACKS, FLIES, STAKE IN FLOORS

MONTANA FLY REQUIRES ROPES & TENSIONERS $35

NOTE IDAHO FLY AND SOLID FLOOR ARE AT DISCOUNT PRICES - CALL TO ORDER

NOTE : 1 ) IDAHO FLYS INCLUDE ROPES & TENSIONERS - A $35 SAVING

2 ) IDAHO FLOORS HAVE NO STOVE AREA OPENING TO PREVENT WATER/BUGS FROM COMING IN WHEN STOVE IS IN USE. A FIREPROOF MAT IS AVAILABLE FOR $35

ALUMINUM FRAMES

Vinyl tent frame bags included
TENT FRAME OPTIONS AVAILABLE: Breakdown - normally: legs (2 pieces) , rafters ( 3 pieces) , tent lengths ( 3 pieces). Additional 10% of stated frame price

MONTANA CANVAS QUALITY: The Outfitter tent, also referred to as a cabin tent, has a history and a legacy as old as the country. It provided shelter from the most severe elements for our early pioneers, trappers, miners, and hunters.
The legacy of Outfitter tents continue today, as it is the most comfortable and meaningful way to introduce children and adults to the outdoors for a quality outdoor experience.
Montana Canvas new and innovative designs insure our customers of the highest standards of construction, materials and comfort. Montana Canvas wall tents have passed the test of time, with families handing down tents from one generation to another, along with precious memories.

STOVE JACK IN FRONT DOOR FLAP: If you prefer your stove jack in the front door flap you must order the flap on the left side while looking at the front of the tent. The left door flap only stove jack location is required because the right front door flap is the flap that normally opens. The right side flap has the 10" storm flap which overlaps the front left door flap. Additionally, there is a seam on the front left flap, on the canvas tents, 3' from the side wall. The stove jack should be 4 1/2' from the sidewall to preclude the stove jack being in the seam. However, if you really want the stove jack 3' from the sidewall, and in the seam it is your choice. However, I would not recommend the stove jack in a seam. If you want the stove jack in the back wall the 3' seam is on both the left and right side. Again, I recommend the stove jack in the back wall be 4 1/2' from either the left or right side.

SNOWLOADS:Some individuals want to leave their Outfitter Tents up in the winter. There is no internal frame that can withstand heavy snow loads. I know outfitters that have had to leave tents in the back country over the winter because they had to leave quickly with their clients due to heavy snowstorms to make it back to their road base camps before the horse trails became impassable. Their tents were torn and frames destroyed when the outfitters tried to retrieve their gear in the spring.

MONTANA CANVAS SIDEWALL SEAMS: All 10 oz canvas tents have 5' seams, 12 oz canvas tents have 4' seams and blend tents only have seams at the edges/corners.

REAR WINDOW: Rear tent window, if ordered, will be slightly off center to the left, looking at the window from inside the outfitters tent. Window off center to the left is to avoid the seam. Bottom of window is 4' 6" from bottom of tent.

RAIN FLY: Stove jack area is zippered and reinforced with webbing .Relite material- 100% UV protection. Fly center ridge grommets on each end match tent grommets to ensure fly doesn't move and accidentally hit stove pipe. Includes ropes, tensioners, stakes/spikes. A rain fly protects the canvas from ultra violet rays, provides another moisture barrier, keeps the canvas roof clean by preventing sap, pitch and dirt from accumulating on the roof when the tent is set up near trees. And most importantly, the fly protects the tent roof from any stove sparks that might land on the canvas which will burn pin holes in the roof. The fly is an absolute necessity if you have a relite tent with the relite roof. Sparks from the stovepipe will quickly burn pin holes in the roof resulting in leaks. The fly should rest on the outfitter tent ridge and have a 4-6 inch gap between the fly and the eave. This air gap allows air circulation between the fly and the canvas roof to dry the canvas when it becomes wet. If you place the fly directly onto the canvas roof there is a possibility of rot and mildew forming. If you already own a tent and there is mildew or rot on your tent, that area is no longer waterproof. If you currently have a tent with a leaking roof, do not treat the canvas with canvak unless the roof leaks only at the seam. When you treat an entire roof with canvak, the canvak seals the cotton pores making your roof airtight which prevents the canvas from breathing. As a result you can get condensation inside the tent just like a synthetic tent.

RELITE FLOORS : Relite floors are thin and there is a strong possibility of floor punctures when stepping on sharp objects such as rocks, pieces of branches, etc, that are under the tent floor area. Thoroughly remove all sharp objects in your tent set up area to prevent punctures. I strongly recommend the Montana Canvas vinyl floor if weight is not an issue as the vinyl floor is much more durable.

DETERMINING WHAT TENT SIZE TO BUY: The amount of square footage in a tent increases tremendously when going up just one size in a tent. Insure you buy the outfitter tent size that fully meets your requirements. If you are not sure which tent size is best, chalk out the 2 sizes on your driveway and then mark out items you plan on having in the tent. Also compare the price difference between the 2 tent sizes you are considering vs the increase in square footage gained by purchasing the larger tent size.

a. A 10x12 (120 square feet) is 50% larger than a 8x10 (80 square feet)

b. A 12x14 (168 square feet) is 40% larger than a 10x12 (120 square feet)

c. A 14x17 (238 square feet) is 42% larger than a 12x14 (168 square feet)

d. A 16x20 (320 square feet) is 35% larger than a 14x17 (238 square feet)

e. A 16x23 (368 square feet) is 15% larger than a 16x20 (320 square feet)

f. A 18x23 (414 square feet) is 15% larger than a 16x23 (368 square feet)

NO STOVEJACK IN SIDEWALL OR END WALL: I do not recommend a stove jack in the side wall or end wall of outfitter tents due to numerous drawbacks. It should be noted that a stove jack in the side wall or end wall requires an adjustable elbow on the stove and an adjustable elbow on the outside of the tent to allow the stovepipe to go straight up for a better draft. Additionally, there must be some type of metal support on the outside of the tent to support the stove pipe. Otherwise your stove pipe will get loose and smoke will get in your tent. Another drawback is that you cannot use nesting pipe when you use an elbow to turn the stove pipe upwards on the outside of your tent. Remember, nesting pipe has a different size of pipe for each pipe section. If you decide to put your stove jack in the sidewall or end wall, I recommend you use metal screws to attach the stove pipe to the stove to prevent the stove pipe coming loose at the stove

MILDEW AND ROT: Storing a wet canvas tent will cause the canvas to rot regardless of what type of water mildew treatment you have on your canvas. If setting up your tent outside to dry after hunting season is not an option, I strongly suggest you set the tent up in a garage or work shop until it is completely dry.

STOVE AREA REQUIREMENTS IN A TENT: You must plan on a stove taking up to 7 feet along a wall in your outfitter tent. There is an automatic 2 + feet standoff from the front wall due to the stove jack location. The stove itself is normally around 2 feet in length. There is normally a 2-3 feet heat standoff distance from the stove before you can place a cot or table.

STOVE PIPE ABOVE RIDGE OF TENT: It is best to have your stove pipe long enough to extend 6 inches or more above the tent ridge. Having the stove pipe above the tent ridge allows the wind coming from any direction to blow sparks away the tent roof thus reducing the possibility of spark holes being burnt in the roof.

FIRE TREATED CANVAS VS STOVE SPARKS: Stove sparks will burn holes in a fire treated roof.

TENT RIDGE HEIGHTS:

1. Tent ridge heights can vary approximately 1 foot in different tent model sizes 12x14 and larger. The taller ridge height of outfitter tents, with the sharper roof angle, helps rain flow off the roof quicker and snow to be removed from the roof easier.
2. The higher ridge height also provides more headroom inside the tent along the sidewalls because the angle of the roof is sharper.
3. The only drawback to higher ridge height is that tents with higher ridges are harder to heat. The higher the ridge, the more heat is at/near the ridge line. It is the same principle as if you were trying to heat a house with an 8' ceiling vs a 9' ceiling.

AWNING: Extension of roof only. Sides and front open. Can only be a separate extension with 24 inch overlap with the tent roof. Does not includes ropes, tensioners, stakes/spikes. See options for pricing.

Porch: Extension of roof and walls of the tent. Front is open. Porch is separate extension with 24 inch overlap.Does not include ropes, tensioners, stakes/spikes. See options for pricing.

Cook Shack: Extension of roof, walls, front enclosed with a door, the are butting up next to the tent is open. Cook shack provides a totally enclosed area for storage and cooking. Cook shack is separate extension only extension with 24 inch overlap of the tent roof. Includes ropes, tensioners, stakes/spikes. Stove jack is an option - $55. Sometimes, it is cost effective to buy another small tent to use as a cook shack than buying a cook shack. The small tent can be used as a cook shack and you can use the smaller tent when there are less people hunting.

Setting up Internal Frame & Tent:

1. Remove rocks and sticks in tent set up area.
2. Determine tent orientation. Set up your tent so the prevailing winds blow sparks and ashes from your stovepipe away from the tent. Sparks landing on a tent roof can burn holes in your roof and the ash will make your tent roof dirty.
3. Lay tent floor on ground where tent is to be located. By using a floor your tent will stay cleaner during set up and take down.
4. Position angles and tent frame on floor in appropriate location for set up.
5. Assemble tent frame except legs on one side. If your tent has a tall roof line it is best to not install legs. By installing legs on one side of the tent frame ridge will be 5-6' high to allow you to easily drape tent over ridge.
6. Unzip all door zippers to prevent strain on zippers.
7. Drape tent over frame. Fold the sidewalls in toward the inside of the roof to keep sidewalls off the ground.
8. Secure fly onto tent .
9. Install legs
10. Adjust your tent to the frame. Do not pull hard on your tent or you will weaken seams and zipper doors. If tent is too tight you must cut down your frame rafters or tent length as necessary. The tent should be snug on the frame but not taunt or require any forcing to make the tent fit the frame.
11. Over the lifetime of your tent your tent may continue to shrink slightly and require you to cut down the frame.
12. If your door zipper is tight you must cut down the rafters to reduce stress on the zipper.
13. Place sod cloth under floor for an air seal and to prevent any rain water from getting on top of floor. Some campers that do not have a floor put the sod cloth to the outside to direct rain water away from outfitter tents.
14. Install stakes and guy ropes and tensioners. Stakes should be driven in at a 45º angle away from the tent. Guy ropes are at the same angle as the tent roof. If I am in an area with high winds I tie my guy ropes to trees, stumps or logs. Another method is to have two guy ropes/stakes for each eave corner.
15. If rain is possible, dig a 4-6" wide trench 2-3" deep around your tent to insure water drains away from your tent.

Montana Canvas Tents are warranted against defects in workmanship or materials. Montana Canvas Wall Tent warranty voided when using cleaning or treatment agents or compounds not approved by Montana Canvas Tents. Warranty does not cover merchandise damaged through transportation, misuse, accident or torn fabric. Any tent found defective will be replaced or repaired, at the discretion of Montana Tent, without charge when the tent is returned with prepaid freight charges. Montana Canvas Wall Tents makes no other warranty either implied or expressed. warranty applies to items sold to the original purchaser. All warranty issues are the sole responsibility of Montana Canvas. Any repair, problem or return should be coordinated directly with Montana Canvas.

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