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ANGLE KITS FOR NEW FRAME
ANGLE KIT - CONDUIT CUT LIST FOR A NEW TENT
Canvas tents, canvas tent frames, aluminum canvas tent
frame, and canvas tent angle kits available. Kwik Kamp frames are slightly
heavier duty than a standard canvas tent frame. A Canvas tent frame is strong
and can withstand high winds and snowstorms. A frames for
packing in are available also.
CUSTOMERS FROM CANADA :
Please visit CANVASTENTSHOP.CA Canada
website designed to eliminate your brokerage fees and reduce shipping for US
canvas tents and canvas tent stoves to Canada. Canvas tents and tent stoves are in Canada
ready for shipment.
The four basic types of tent frames:
- Internal frame. Aluminum canvas tent frames or
galvanized steel canvas tent frames are normally used by individuals
tent camping near a road. However, lightweight aluminum tent frames
can be easily packed in on horses. Frame prices listed below.
Aluminum tent poles should be tied tightly together
to reduce rattling that might spook
- Angle Kits.
You can easily make your own canvas tent frame by purchasing
conduit from local hardware stores. Purchasing an angle kit and
1" steel conduit is much cheaper than purchasing and shipping
a complete tent frame. Steel tent poles are very heavy and shipping is expensive. We have both fixed and adjustable angle
kits for canvas tents available.
- Click how to measure your
current tent to provide required tent measurements ordering a
angle kit or internal frame. Tent poles will be made to dimensions provided. Double check your measurements when measuring all canvas tents.
- Click angle
kit instructions to make your own tent frame.
- A Frame. Galvanized steel, two models, internal or external.
Can be used near a road or packing in on horses.
- Internal OR External A Frame,
prices and information - recommended.
- External A frame prices and information.
- Lodge pole Frame. Normally used by reeanctors or individuals
who pack in on horses and make their own tent poles using lodge poles.
Click Lodge pole
frame to view picture.
I live in canvas tents 6-8 weeks a year. A tent internal frame is the quickest
and easiest frame to assemble. Most importantly, internal canvas tent frame
provides the most support for your tent roof. Except when snowing heavily
or heavy winds, I do not install guy ropes, except to corners, to eaves
because the internal wall tent frame provides so much more support. Not
installing guy ropes and tensioners will significantly reduces set up time.
During high winds you must have all ropes and stakes set up, I tie my ropes
to trees, stumps, rocks etc to insure my tent doesn't fly away. Your canvas tent
is just like a ship sail during high winds.
Kwik Kamp is usually 2 to 3 weeks behind in shipping aluminum and galvanized
steel wall frames tent because Kwik Kamp is a national brand.
The steel Hunter internal canvas tent frame can be normally shipped within 1
week if required.
Aluminum canvas tent frames are available frame
Kwik Kamp. Ship time is about 2 weeks after ordering.
RECOMMENDATION: There are lighter tent frames available for canvas tents
but I would not recommend them except for a 8 x 10. Lighter frames have
very thin walls and cannot withstand much of a snowload.
For individuals purchasing Montana Canvas Blend and Outfitter canvas tents
I recommend the Montana Canvas frames listed on my Montana Canvas web pages.
A frame for a new canvasl tent should be reduced 2% to allow for canvas shrinkage.
RECOMMENDATION: After receiving your frame I recommend
you wet down canvas tents on the frame. When wetting your tent for shrinkage,
and also when it rains/snows, insure that you have guy ropes/side ropes
and wall stakes on your new wall tent to insure it only shrinks the normal
1-2% shrinkage and that it shrinks evenly. Otherwise it may shrink more
than 3% and unevenly and may not fit your internal frame properly. Allow
some looseness in the guy ropes to allow for the roof shrinkage. If you
do not allow for guy rope looseness you will weaken the seams. When the
tent shrinks against a tight rope, the shrinkage will cause great pressure/strain
on the tent roof seams which weaken the seams.
Click to enlarge Canvas Tent Internal
CANVAS TENT FRAMES
|KWIK KAMP - PRO PACKER
||HUNTER STEEL INTERNAL FRAME
||KWIK KAMP - ALUMINUM
|Made of 1 3/8" galvanized steel
||Made of 1 3/8" galvanized steel
||Made of 1 1/2" round aluminum
||Not quite as strong as Kwik Kamp Frame.
||Equal in strength to steel
|Slip joint allows quick and easy setup
||Slip joint allows quick and easy setup
||40% lighter than Pro Packer
|One person setup, no pins, bolts or clips
||One person setup, no pins, bolts or clips
||One person setup, no pins, bolts or clips
3 RAFTER CANVAS TENT FRAME for tents 10'
- 14' long
every size available - quotes on request
||KWIK KAMP ALUMINUM
*3 rafter frame is not recommended for any tent
longer than 12'
S&H for Kwik Kamp FOB OR
S&H for Hunter Frame FOB MT
S&H for Lightweight Aluminum FOB WY
4 & 5 RAFTER CANVAS TENT FRAME - PRICES
Every size available - quotes on request
Prices are for 4 rafters unless 5 rafters specified
||KWIK KAMP PRO PACKER
||HUNTER STEEL FRAME
|| KWIK KAMP ALUMINUM
|| 99 lbs
|| 107 lbs
* 1 5/8" diameter steel frames for Kwik Kamp 18' wide
OPTIONS AVAILABLE FOR ALL CANVAS TENT FRAMES
2 piece legs for 3 rafters: $30.00
2 piece legs for 4 rafters: $40.00
2 piece legs for 5 rafters: $50.00
FRAME BAGS with zipper and carrying
handle. 5' to 8' lengths available, specify size when ordering. $50.00
each including shipping.
HUNTER FRAMES ONLY
3 piece rafters for 3 rafter frame: $30.00
3 piece rafters for 4 rafter frame: $40.00
3 piece rafters for 5 rafter frame: $50.00
KWIK KAMP INFORMATION
- Kwik Kamp rafters and tent lengths are 2 pieces, swedged together, 3
piece rafters and tent lengths are not an option.
- Kwik Kamp tent frames ship date is normally 2-3 weeks
during peak selling season - August - October.
- Set of two synthetic bags 3 rafter frame: $35.00
- Set of three synthetic bags 4 rafter frame: $52.00
- Set of four synthetic bags 5 rafter frame: $69.00
HUNTER FRAME INCLUDES
GENERAL FRAME INFORMATION
If you are interested in fixed or adjustable angle kits visit Angle
- If your frame is not marked, color code your tent
frame parts, i.e., legs, rafters and tent lengths at 1-2" from ends
where the paint will be hidden in the angle joints.
- Clean Your Frame: If the frame has a coating that
makes your hands dirty. Dirty hands results in a dirty tent.
- NEVER force canvas tents over a frame. If you do, you will weaken or tear seams and ruin your zipper.
Setting up Internal Frame & Tent:
- Remove rocks and sticks in tent set up area.
- Lay tent floor on ground where tent is to be located. By using a floor
your tent will stay cleaner during set up and take down. I also have
a cheap indoor outdoor carpet that folds like canvas that I put on top
of the floor. I place the tent on the carpet as sometimes the tent can
get dirty from a dusty/dirty floor.
- Position angles and tent frame on floor in appropriate location for
- Assemble tent frame except legs on one side. By installing legs on
one side of the tent frame ridge will be 5-6' high to allow you to easily
drape tent over ridge. If your tent has a tall ridge line, like a Montana
canvas tent, it is best not to install the legs as the ridge line will
be too high to drape the tent over the ridge when legs are on one side
of the frame.
- Unzip all door zippers to prevent strain on zippers.
- Drape tent over frame. Fold the sidewalls in toward the inside of the
roof to keep sidewalls off the ground.
- In windy conditions, secure tent ridge guy ropes to tent roof end grommets.
- Install legs
- Adjust your tent to the frame. Do not pull hard on your tent or you
will weaken seams and zipper doors. If tent is too tight you must cut
down your frame rafters or tent length as necessary. The tent should
be snug on the frame but not taunt or require any forcing to make the
tent fit the frame.
- Over the lifetime of your tent your tent may continue to shrink slightly
and require you to cut down the frame.
- If your door zipper is tight you must cut down the rafters to reduce
stress on the zipper.
- Place sod cloth under floor for an air seal and to prevent any rain
water from getting on top of floor. Some campers that do not have a floor
put the sod cloth to the outside to direct rain water away from the tent.
- Install stakes and guy ropes and tensioners. Stakes should be driven
in at a 45º angle away from the tent. Guy ropes are at the same
angle as the tent roof. If I am in an area with high winds I tie my guy
ropes to trees, stumps or logs. Another method is to have two guy ropes/stakes
for each eave corner.
- If rain is possible, dig a 4-6" wide trench 2-3" deep around
your tent to insure water drains away from your tent.
- TAKING DOWN TENT. Reverse the sequence provided
- Also clean your sod cloth before taking down canvas tents. The sod cloth
touches the ground and will be very dirty or muddy if has rained. The dirt
on the sod cloth will dirty your tent if not cleaned.
- ALWAYS have the inside of the tent touching other parts of the inside
of the tent when taking down the tent or when folding the tent for storage.
The outside of your tent always has dirt, dust, tree pitch etc on it.
If the outside parts of your canvas touches the inside of the tent - your
inside part of your tent will be dirty- and you will have to look at the
dirt while you are in the tent.
- The tent set up and take down procedures outlined should help keep your
tent clean for years.
Tent Frame on a Platform: If you plan on placing your tent
frame and tent on a platform I have some recommendations.
- Building the platform: Do not build the platform
until you receive the tent and measure it. Most tents are either smaller
or larger than the tent stated dimensions.
- Platform size: Build the platform to the same
width as the frame. In this way the rain water run downs the roof over the
eaves and prevents any water from puddling on the platform and coming inside
the tent. Also place the tent frame flush with the back of the platform to
prevent rain water from coming in from the back.
- Rain water gap in platform: If you have a porch
area and use plywood, cut a 1/2" gap in the plywood immediately in front of
the tent. This gap will prevent rain water from coming in the front of the
tent. If using 2x6's for the porch insure the 2x6's run parallel to the front
of the tent and allow a 1/2" gap between boards immediately in front of the
- Platform sill/perimeter board: If using an internal
frame, place a 2x4 along the perimeter of the tent area on the platform. Drill
a hole in the sill board for the tent frame legs. In this way the wall tent
frame can't move/slide on the smooth platform surface during high winds. It
is also probably a good idea to caulk under the sill boards to prevent any
water from coming in from the sides.
- Sod cloth board: Place a 1/4" shim on each corner
and screw/nail a 2x6 board even with the top of the platform along the back
and 2 sides. Insert the sod cloth in the space between the 2x6 and platform.
The sod cloth now will not go upward in raining, windy conditions preventing
any wind or rain from coming in the tent.
- Guy ropes: Install eyebolts near the bottom of
the platform on the sides and back. Tie your guy ropes to the eyebolts. In
this procedure, you will keep the ropes out of your way instead of having the
ropes being at a 45º from your eaves.
- Fly: Tents on platforms are usually set up for
long periods of time and a fly is recommended. A fly protects the tent from
destructive UV rays, provides another moisture barrier, prevents any stove
sparks from burning small holes in your tent roof, and also keeps your roof
clean form the tree sap, etc. The fly rests on the tent ridge. Insure there
is a 3-4" space between the fly and the tent eaves This space is created by
adjusting your fly ropes longer than the tent guy ropes. Space/gap is required
for air circulation to dry out moisture after rain and snowstorms. If you do
not have a space for air circulation your tent could develop mildew/rot on
the canvas roof. When a tent has mildew/ rot it is no longer water resistant.
- Fly Ropes: To preclude fly ropes staked out far from your tent you can build
what looks like a long hitching rail parallel to each side of the tent, 1 foot
away from the tent, and 6 inches higher than the eave. Tie the fly ropes to
the hitching rail and you avoid long fly ropes and you also have an air space
between the fly and the tent to allow for air circulation to dry any moisture
on the tent roof.
- Floor: I prefer a loose waterproof floor as it
allows the use of a perimeter sill board for the frame legs. The waterproof
floor is definitely necessary if there is any possibility that rain
water will get inside your tent.
- Carpet: You can use indoor/outdoor carpet and
keep it dry if you have an effective rain perimeter sill board and rain gap
at the front of your tent. Carpets are much more comfortable to walk on than
vinyl or wood floors. However, you must have a fireproof material under your
stove and 2' around your stove. Carpets are very flammable and extreme caution
must be used. Use a carpet at your own risk.
- Snow loads: Some individuals want to leave their
tents up in the winter. There is no internal frame that can withstand heavy
snow loads. I know outfitters that have had to leave tents in the back country
over the winter because they had to leave quickly with their clients due to
heavy snowstorms to make it back to their road base camps before the horse
trails became impassable. Their tent poles are bent, canvas torn and frames
destroyed from heavy snow loads when the outfitters tried to retrieve their
gear in the spring. For added ridge support you can a place a support tent
pole in the middle of the ridge for added support.
- Hopefully, my recommendations
for wall tents frames on a platform will be of some use.
AWNING , PORCH & COOKSHACK FRAMES: If you are purchasing
a awning, porch or cook shack frame I recommend eave openings or eave socks
on your tent end abutting the awning, porch or cook shack. By having an eave
and ridge opening - you can have a 4 way angle on the end of your tent instead
of the normal 3 way angle. The 4 way angle allows you to connect the tent frame
directly to the awning, porch or cook shack frame. By connecting to the tent
frame you save the cost of 3 angles, 2 legs and 2 rafters and the time to set
up these extra frame pieces. If you are buying an attached awning, porch, or
cook shack you should automatically order eave socks or eave openings. If you
are buying an unattached awning, porch, cook shack the eave openings are optional.
FRAME TOUCHING YOUR WET CANVAS TENT. Sometimes a canvas tent
will leak where the canvas touches the frame. If this wicking/leaking occurs
the only solution is to purchase a tent fly. The fly prevents prevents any
rain or snow from touching the canvas so no wicking/leaking can occur. Other
benefits of a fly (1) prevents sparks from the stovepipe burning holes in your
canvas roof (2) protects canvas from ultraviolet rays which deteriorates the
canvas (3) keeps your tent roof clean from tree pitch.
STORING AND TRANSPORTING YOUR FRAME TENT IS MUCH EASIER when using frame storage
bags. A frame consists of many pieces that can normally be put into 2 frame
bags for tents 14x16 and smaller. You will need 3 frame bags for tents larger
than a 14x16.
REENACTOR FRAMES. Some reenactors do not like the time and effort to set up
lodge pole frames for their tents. Some reenactors will use an internal frame
or internal A frame that are only visible on the inside of the tent and then
use wooden eave poles to give their tent "the reenactor look."
- An internal wall tent frame is recommended when camping near a road. Internal frame rafters provide much more roof support than any other type of frame.
- Color code 1 inch of the end of each internal tent frame pole that go inside the angles for easier identification and set up.
- Most frames you order have two piece rafters and two piece tent lengths. If you have a 8' bed on your pick up, tape the 2 pieces of your tent frame lengths and rafters together. Taping together the two pieces of the tent lengths and rafters together reduces the number of poles about in half and significantly reduces tent set up and take down time.
- Frame bags make transporting and storing tent frames much easier.
- If you fold the tent sod cloth to the inside of the tent, place something under the legs so the legs will not wear a hole in the sod cloth. Use patio chair leg rubber or plastic caps or small 6"x6" carpet remnants works fine.
- A tent should never fit tight on a tent frame. Never force a tent on a frame. A tight fit puts pressure on the seams and zippers and will eventually cause damage. Remember, if the door zipper is hard to zip the rafters are too long and you need to cut the rafters accordingly. The center of the eave angle brackets should be in the middle of the eave. Measure the amount that the rafter should be shortened by determining location of center of eave angle vs tent eave.
- Some frames, especially Kwik Kamp, have a film on the metal that causes your hands to get dirty when you handle the frame. I wash the frame with soap to remove the film. You cannot remove all the Kwik Kamp film with soap. This film makes your hands dirty and you will have to clean your hands during tent setup or your dirty hands will get the tent dirty.
- If you do not have an angle kit bag obtain one. You need to keep your angles
accounted for and by your frame to insure you do not forget the angles. I
have fluorescent paint markings on my angle bag to make it very noticeable
so I can not forget the angles.
- Be prepared to cut down your frame. Tent canvas normally shrinks 1-3% after
it becomes wet and dries. Tent frames are normally made 1% smaller to allow
for the tent shrinkage. However, you might have a tent that shrinks the full
3% and the frame must be cut down for your tent to fit properly on the frame.
- Insure you use guy eave ropes on your tent. Not using guy ropes will result in your tent being blown away. A tent without guy ropes being used is just like a large sail. When your tent blows away the most damage normally occurs to the frame. If you expect heavy winds, secure the ridge ends of the tent using the grommets on each ridge end.
- Remove snow from your roof. There is no tent frame made that can withstand
heavy snow loads. Sometimes outfitters have to leave their hunting area in
a hurry due to unexpected heavy snows and are not able to return until the
following spring. The snow load destroys their tent and frames.
- If you expect heavy snow loads, sometimes it is wise to put a Lodge pole
brace in the center of your ridge beam whether you have a Lodge pole or metal
- The frame where it touches a wet roof sometimes causes a leak. This condensation is caused by moisture wicking through the tent. The only solution if leaking occurs is to purchase a fly which will stop the moisture from wicking through the canvas.
- When putting your tent on your frame, never put the entire rolled up tent on your ridge poles. The tremendous weight of large tents on the ridge pole, especially aluminum frames, can bend your ridge pole.
Metal frames are very expensive to ship. You might want to purchase an angle kit and make your own frame from 1" electrical metal conduit. You can purchase conduit at local hardware stores.
If you are horse or mule packing you can use ropes, lodge poles, or trees near your tent to put up a frame for frames tent.
Purchasing metal frames vary tremendously between companies and has to be a major consideration where you purchase your tent.
- Lodge pole frame. When leaving camp insure you lean each tent pole upright against a tree. If necessary tie your tent poles to a tree to keep them off the ground. Tent poles on the ground rot quickly.
- I recommend an internal frame as it provides the most roof support. Frames
tent that do not have rafters, such as the A-frame, Lodge pole and elk frame,
put much more pressure and weight under snow loads. on the tent ridge and
eaves where guy ropes are tied to the grommets or d-rings. Tents with significant
snow loads. have a much higher probability of tearing or splitting when an
internal frame is not used.