WALL TENT SHOP

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Moscow Idaho 83843
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Click onto Canvas tents, canvas tent frames, angle kits, available at this site:

Recommend you also read Tent Stove Info Guide under information on homepage.

BEFORE PURCHASING CANVAS TENTS, YOU MUST DETERMINE

Canvas Tent Standard features
  • Determine the standard features canvas tents have that you are considering and the cost of additional features/options you want.
  • Most canvas tent buyers want at the minimum these standard features:
    • Front door with zipper
    • Stove jack
    • 9" - 10" vinyl sod cloth to keep canvas tents clean and sealed against the ground
    • Rope with tensioners
    • Tent stakes
  • It should be noted that all tent canvas used in US manufactured canvas tents is imported from primarily Pakistan, India and lately China. Where the canvas is made is not a factor since tent canvas that is imported to the US must meet US canvas specifications, i.e. Army Duck, Boat shrunk, Marine Grade, 10.1 oz, 12 oz etc. Imported fire treated canvas must meet Federal and State fire treatment requirements.

Canvas Tent cost comparison:

  • If the canvas tents you are considering purchasing do not have the standard features listed above, you need to add the costs of those features to the price of the tent before you can make a valid tent comparison.
  • Some canvas tent manufacturers list common standard features as options to increase the price of the tent from an initial low advertising price.

Tent Purchase Recommendations:

  • Zipper Door: I recommend a back door w/zipper or window for cross ventilation for hot weather. Being in a canvas tent w/out a back door or window is miserable during hot weather.
  • SIZE OF TENT: If you can't decide between 2 sizes of tents , go far the larger tent. I have never heard anyone say they wished they had bought a smaller tent. When people complain about the size of the tent, the complaint is the tent is too small for their requirements.
  • FLY: Fly is always recommended. Sometimes during rainy days, a canvas tent will leak where the canvas touches the frame. If this wicking/leaking occurs the only solution is to purchase a tent fly. The fly prevents prevents any rain or snow from touching the canvas so no wicking/leaking can occur. Other benefits of a fly (1) prevents sparks from the stovepipe burning holes in your canvs roof (2) protects canvas from ultraviolet rays which deteriorates the canvas (3) keeps your tent roof clean from tree pitch (4) creates air space between the roof and fly which acts an insulation area which helps keep your tent warmer.
  • Tent Bag: I strongly recommend a tent bag to keep your tent clean during hauling and storage.
  • Options: If you are not sure about a option I would probably add it. It is much cheaper to add options while the tent is under construction compared to costs after you take delivery. (Been there done that!)
  • Color of tent: I encourage you to purchase a tent that is white. White reflects lantern light much better than off white or colored tents.
  • Purchasing a large tent: Large canvas tents, 14'x16' to 16'x24' can weigh from 90 - 120 pounds and can be very difficult to set-up. Consider purchasing a blend tent, with its canvas roof and synthetic lightweight Relite walls. The blend tent weighs approximately 40% less than an all canvas tent making it much easier to handle and set-up. The blend tent with its lightweight Relite walls is just as durable and weatherproof as all canvas tents
  • Cookshack.A cookshack costs almost as much as a tent of equal size. Sometimes it makes more sense to buy another tent to use as a cookshack and have the flexibility of using the smaller tent when less people go hunting or camping.
  • Color of Fly. A clear translucent fly is best as it allows light to pass through it. If you use a dark fly during the day it will be much darker inside your tent.
  • Reinforced eaves. The eaves have the most pressure on a tent due to tightening the roof by use of guy ropes and stakes. If a tent fails due to snow loads, the tent normally tears near the eaves and grommets. Insure whatever tent you buy has reinforced eaves.
Cost of tent frame:
  • Metal frames are very expensive to ship. You might want to purchase an angle kit and make your own frame from 1" electrical metal conduit. You can purchase conduit at local hardware stores.
  • If you are horse or mule packing you can use ropes, lodge poles, trees near your tent to put up your tent.
  • Purchasing metal frames vary tremendously between companies and has to be a major consideration where you purchase your canvas tent.
Understanding Tent Terminology:
  • Before you purchase a tent you must know the definitions of tent terminology in order to compare tent quality and price.
  • Tent Terminology:
    • Army Duck - Double Fill: The highest quality canvas made. Canvas is made by weaving threads together, crosswise and lengthwise. The Army Duck canvas has 2 threads twisted together making 1 thread, these double twisted threads are woven into the canvas going both crosswise and lengthwise. Twisting 2 threads together into 1 makes Army Duck stronger more durable, and also allows the canvas to breath better. A 10.1 oz Army Duck is probably just as strong as a 12 oz Dual Fill.
    • Dual Fill: Two threads are twisted together to make one thread for all threads going only crosswise in the canvas. Threads going lengthwise in the canvas are only single threads. Dual fill does not meet Army Duck manufacturing specifications.
    • Single Fill: Single threads are woven together both crosswise and lengthwise to make the canvas.
    • Untreated Army Duck: Army Duck is naturally water repellant, but untreated. When you put this tent away it must be completely dry or it will mildew and rot. Additionally, all untreated canvas will shrink each time it gets wet. Consequently, you will have to cut your tent frame constantly. Untreated canvas will shrink at least 10%, making your tent 10% smaller! Only purchase untreated canvas if you summer camp or you are willing to take the time for its extra care in storing and you can deal with continually cutting down your tent frame. The best frame for untreated canvas is a lodge pole A-Frame so you won't be continually cutting down your expensive internal frame.
    • Blend tent is available/recommended for individuals who perfer a lightweight tent or pack tent. Canvas roof and relite walls (synthetic material). Saves approximately 40% in weight from a standard 10.1 oz canvas tent. Blend tents lighter weight makes larger tents much easier to transport, set up and take down.
    • Reenactor/Rendezvous Tent: Tent made to look like tents made during the Civil War, fur trade, Revolutionary War, Medieval. No modern features such as zippers, nylon.
    • Sunforger, Marine Grade or Boatshrunk are the terms used to state the canvas has been treated for water and mildew resistance. Water/mildew treated tents will not shrink more than 3%. Water/mildew treatment is worth the extra expense.
      • Recommendation: Do not purchase untreated canvas then apply a water resistance material like "Thompson's Water Sealer". By applying your own water resistant treatment you plug up the spaces between the threads which will prevent your tent to breathe. Therefore your canvas tent will have condensation inside the tent just like a synthetic material tent such as Relite or Tex-Tex.
      • Recommendation: Do not purchase a tent that is not treated for water/mildew as it will shrink 10-15% when it gets wet.
    • Fire Resistant: Meets CPAI 84 fire retardant code. If a tent is not specifically treated for fire resistance it will burn quickly. Fire Resistant will only burn when there is a flame source present on the canvas. When you remove the flame source the tent will stop burning. However, there is no tent made that will not burn.
      • Recommendation: I strongly recommend you consider fire treatment. The additional expense is worth the peace of mind that your tent will not readily catch on fire.
      • Recommendation: Do not buy a tent that is not treated for fire resistance and then apply a fire retardant. By applying your own fire resistant treatment you plug up the spaces between the threads which will prevent your tent to breathe. Therefore your canvas tent will have condensation inside the tent just like a synthetic material tent such as Relite or Tex-Tex.
    • Parafan Finish: An exceptionally heavy finish that treats canvas for water, mildew and fire resistance. The heavy parafan finish should make the canvas more, water, mildew and fire resistant. However, significant weight is added to the tent.
    • Tex-Tex and Relite: Both are synthetic fabrics. Tents made of synthetic fabrics don't breathe and may condensate. Using a propane stove or boiling water will cause condensation. A wood burning stove usually helps prevent condenation caused by breathing. Opening a window several inches also prevents condensation. Tex-Tex and Relite will not shrink 1-3% like canvas and no shrinkage reduction factor is required for an internal frame. Synthetic tents are much lighter for packing but you must determine if the reduced weight is worth condensation inside your tent. Relite and Tex-Tex are both as strong as canvas and both retain heat inside the tent equal to canvas. However, sparks will burn a hole in Relite and Tex-Tex much easier than canvas. If you purchase a Relite or Tex-Tex tent I recommend a fly to protect the Relite or Tex-Tex tent from sparks.
      • Recommendation: Unless weight is extremely critical, I would recommend a blend tent (canvas roof and relite walls) over and all synthetic tent if you want to reduce tent weight. The canvas roof allows the tent to breathe and reduces condensation, and reduces the possibility of a spark hole in the tent roof.
      • Recommendation: If you plan on buying a relite tent I recommend a pellet or wood burning stove. Propane stoves cuase condensation. Boiling water also causes condensation.
    • Canvas Weight: Heavier canvas is not necessarily better. Double Fill weave both length wise and croswise (Army Duck), water/mildew/fire treatment determines the quality of the tent - not the canvas weight.
    • Sod Cloth: Normally a piece of 9 " - 10" vinyl that is sewn to the bottom of all tent walls. The sod cloth acts as an air seal and helps keep the tent clean since the vinyl sod cloth is touching the ground instead of the canvas.
    • Eave: Location where roof and side wall meet with a 2"- 4" overhang.
    • Eave Socks: Openings at the end of the eaves that allows connecting a tent internal frame to the porch/awning/cook shack frame.
    • Floor: Can be sewn in, staked, or attached to tent with D-rings.
      • Recommendation: Don't sew in a floor when using an internal frame as it is extremely difficult to set up.
      • Recommendation: Always have fireproof material underneath the stove with a 2 foot radius , or cut out/ zippered are floor where stove is located when using a floor.
    • Fly: Water proof material used to cover tent roof. Protects canvas tents from sparks, UV rays, moisture and allows snow to slide off easier. A factory fly has an area cut out for the stove jack and has a flap.
      • Recommendation: Buy a fly to protect your roof from sparks or if you are going to leave your tent setup for extended periods of time. UV rays are very damaging to canvas.
    • Awning: Extension of roof only. Sides and front open. Can be sewn on or extension with 8-12 inch overlap.
    • Porch: Extension of roof and walls of the tent. Front is open. Porch can be sewn to tent or extension with 8-12 inch overlap.
    • Cook Shack/Kitchen: Extension of roof, walls, front enclosed with a door. Cook shack provides a totally enclosed area for storage and cooking. Can be sewn on or extension with 8-12 inch overlap.
    • Swedged: A tent frame piece necked down to fit into another tent frame piece or angle.
  • Tent Frames: There are four basic types of tent frames:
    1. Internal frame. Galvanized steel tent frame or aluminum tent frame are normally used by individuals camping near a road. However, an aluminum tent frame can be easily packed. Internal frames are recommended as the internal frame rafters provide roof support. Other types of frames do not have rafters.
    2. An angle kit can be purchased and you can easily make your own frame. Purchase 1" electrical conduit at a local hardware store. The angle kit costs and your purchase of 1" conduit is much cheaper than purchasing and shipping an entire tent frame. It is recomended to have a rafter every 6' or less to prevent tent roof sagging and to increase snow load carrying capacity. Click angle kit to view angle kit instructions to make your own tent frame.
    3. A Frame. Galvanized steel. Used near a road or packing in. Click for wall tent A frame information and prices.
    4. Hunter Frame. Galvanized steel. Hunter frame specifically designed for Hunter Canvas Tents, NOT AVAILABLE for other tent models. Used near a road or packing in. Click Hunter tents to view Hunter Frame.
    5. Lodgepole Frame. Normally used by people who pack in and make their own frame from lodgepoles. Click to view picture of a lodgepole frame.
Note: Internal frames should be reduced 1 - 2% for new tents to allow for tent canvas shrinkage.

General Inforation:

  • Visualize Size of Canvas Tents: If you can't decide on what size of tent you need I suggest you chalk out the tent sizes you are considering on your driveway. Visualize or actually place items in your tent chalk box. Note: The first 7 feet of your tent wall should be reserved for a stove and stand off area.

  • DETERMINING WHAT CANVAS TENT SIZE TO BUY: The amount of square footage in a tent increases tremendously when going up one size in a tent. Insure you buy the tent size that fully meets your requirements. Also compare the price difference between the 2 tent sizes you are considering vs the increase in square footage gained by purchasing the larger tent size

    a. A 10x12 (120 square feet) is 50% larger than a 8x10 (80 square feet)

    b. A 12x14 (168 square feet) is 40% larger than a 10x12 (120 square feet)

    c. A 14x16 (224 square feet) is 33% larger than a 12x14 (168 square feet)

    d. A 16x20 (320 square feet) is 42% larger than a 14x16 (224 square feet)

    e. A 16x24 (384 square feet) is 20% larger than a 16x20 (320 square feet)

    f. A 18x24 (432 square feet) is 13% larger than a 16x24 (384 square feet)

  • Zipper Door vs Tie Door: A zippered door keeps warm air in and cold air out better than tie doors. If you use a tent in cold weather I would recommend a zippered door.
  • Metal Zipper vs Neoprene Zipper: Most tentmakers use YKK #10 neoprene zippers. A metal zipper freezes more easily than neoprene. Also metal zippers that are bent become unserviceable. However, some tentmakers use metal zippers as a selling point but you have to decide which is best for you.
  • Stove Inside of Tent: Never place a stove on a canvas or synthetic floor for safety. Most factory floors have a cut out or zippered area for the stove.
  • Actual Size of Tent: Most canvas tents made by tentmakers are not made to the exact size ordered. For example a 12'x14' might actually be 11'8"x 14'6" because rolls of canvas can differ by three or four inches.
  • Tent Life Expectancy: A good quality tent should last the typical person 20-30 years. Leaving the tent set up for long periods of time (months) in the sun, without a fly, and storing the tent wet are the two main factors that affect tent life expectancy.

Tent Maintenance:

  • Zipper Maintenance: Always have zipper unzipped when placing/removing tent over frame to prevent too much stress on zipper. As your tent roof shrinks the tent will fit tighter on the frame and increase stress on the door zipper.
    • Recommendation: Cut rafters down as necessary to prevent unnecessary stress on zipper. You do not want to be camping in cold weather and have an unserviceable zipper.
  • Mildew: If you have mildew on your canvas tent mix 2 cups of bleach in a 5 gallon bucket. Wash only the area with mildew. A tent with mildew will leak at the mildew spot regardless if treated with bleach.
  • Washing Tent: Use only mild detergent like "Woollite". Use a hose and scrub lightly.
  • Storage: Never store damp or wet canvas tents. Always let the tent dry naturally. Your tent will get mildew if stored wet regardless if you have a mildew treated tent.
  • Cleaning Tent: Always brush off caked on dirt or mud (let mud dry) with a soft brush.
  • UV Rays: Long exposure to the sun's UV rays will damage all canvas tents. A fly is recomended to prevent UV damage if you set up your tent 2-3 weeks or longer annually. A tent fly also keeps your tent roof clean, snow slides off the tent better and acts as another weather barrier.
  • Leaking Seams: Use Canvak tent sealer to stop leaking seams or purchase a fly.
  • Stoves or Lanterns: Keep stoves, propane cook stoves and lanterns away from canvas.
  • Set up Location: Be aware of which trees emit resins and avoid setting up under these types of trees.

Internal Frames:

  • If your frame is not marked, color code your tent frame parts, i.e., legs, rafters and tent lengths at 1-2" from ends where the paint will be hidden in the angle joints.
  • Clean Your Frame: If the frame has a coating that makes your hands dirty. Dirty hands results in a dirty tent.
  • If you are making your own tent frame and do not feel confident, you may not want to allow any shrinkage the first cut. After you place the tent on the frame you can decide how much more you need to cut the frame down. If you cut the frame too small initially you will have to repurchase all the EMT pipe.

Setting up Internal Frame & Tent:

  1. Remove rocks and sticks in tent set up area.
  2. Determine tent orientation. Set up your tent so the prevailing winds blow sparks and ashes from your stove pipe away from the tent. Sparks landing on a roof can burn holes in your roof and ash will cause your tent to get dirty.
  3. Lay tent floor on ground where tent is to be located. By using a floor your tent will stay cleaner during set up and take down. I also have a cheap indoor outdoor carpet that folds like canvas that I put on top of the floor. I place the tent on the carpet as sometimes the tent can get dirty from a dusty/dirty floor.
  4. Position angles and tent frame on floor in appropriate location for set up.
  5. Assemble tent frame except legs on one side. By installing legs on one side of the tent frame ridge wil be 5-6' high to allow you to easily drape tent over ridge. If your tent has a tall ridgeline, like a Montana canvas tent, it is best not to install the legs as the ridgeline will be too high to drape the tent over the ridge when legs are on one side of the frame.
  6. Unzip all door zippers to prevent strain on zippers.
  7. Drape tent over frame. Fold the sidewalls in toward the inside of the roof to keep sidewalls off the ground.
  8. In windy conditions, secure tent ridge guy ropes to tent roof end grommetts.
  9. Install legs
  10. Adjust your tent to the frame. Do not pull hard on your tent or you will weaken seams and zipper doors. If tent is too tight you must cut down your frame rafters or tent length as necessary. The tent should be snug on the frame but not taunt or require any forcing to make the tent fit the frame.
  11. Over the lifetime of your tent your tent may continue to shrink slightly and require you to cut down the frame.
  12. If your door zipper is tight you must cut down the rafters to reduce stress on the zipper.
  13. Place sod cloth under floor for an air seal and to prevent any rain water from getting on top of floor. Some campers that do not have a floor put the sod cloth to the outside to direct rain water away from the tent.
  14. Install stakes and guy ropes and tensioners. Stakes should be driven in at a 45º angle away from the tent. Guy ropes are at the same angle as the tent roof. If I am in an area with high winds I tie my guy ropes to trees, stumps or logs. Another method is to have two guy ropes/stakes for each eave corner.
  15. If rain is possible, dig a 4-6" wide trench 2-3" deep around your tent to insure water drains away from your tent.
  16. TAKING DOWN TENT. Reverse the sequence provided
  17. Also clean your sod cloth before taking down the tent. The sod cloth touches the ground and will be very dirty or muddy if has rained. The dirt on the sod cloth will dirty your tent if not cleaned.
  18. ALWAYS have the inside of the tent touching other parts of the inside of the tent when taking down the tent or when folding the tent for storage. The outside of your tent always has dirt, dust, tree pitch etc on it.. If the outside parts of your canvas touches the inside of the tent - your inside part of your tent will be dirty- and you will have to look at the dirt while you are in the tent.
  19. The tent set up and take down procedures outlined should help keep your tent clean for years.

Shrinking Your Tent to Your Internal Frame:

  1. Ensure you have guy ropes on your tent and leave some slack to compensate for tent shrinkage.
  2. It is imperative that when you wet your tent you throughly soak the seams. There are small needle holes where the seams are sewn together.
  3. Thoroughly soaking the seams normally closes the needle holes which will prevent tent seam leakage.
  4. Wetting down the tent causes the cotton fibers to swell which makes a tighter weave increasing water resistance.

Taking Down Canvas Tents:

  1. Clean your sod cloth. If your sod cloth is dirty you will get the inside of your tent dirty.
  2. Unzip your door zippers.
  3. Fold your tent walls to the inside so the inside of your tent always touches the inside of the tent walls to keep your tent cleaner.
  4. Do not pull out the wall stakes out by using the canvas wall as you might damage your tent. A clae hammer is recommended.
  5. Take down in reverse order of assembly.

Tent Frame on a Platform: If you plan on placing your tent frame and tent on a platform I have some recommendations.

  1. Building the platform: Do not build the platform until you receive the tent and measure it. Most canvas tents are either smaller or larger than the tent stated dimensions.
  2. Platform size: Build the platform to the same width as the frame. In this way the rain water run downs the roof over the eaves and prevents most water from puddling on the platform and coming inside the tent. Also place the tent frame flush with the back of the platform to prevent rain water from coming in from the back.
  3. Rain water gap in platform: If you have a porch area and use plywood, cut a 1/2" gap in the plywood immediately in front of the tent. This gap will prevent rain water from coming in the front of the tent. If using 2x6's for the porch insure the 2x6's run parallel to the front of the tent and allow a 1/2" gap between boards immediately in front of the tent.
  4. Platform sill/perimeter board: If using an internal frame, place a 2x4 along the perimeter of the tent area on the platform. Drill a hole in the sill board for the tent frame legs. In this way the wall tent frame can't move/slide on the smooth platform surface during high winds. It is also proably a good idea to caulk under the sill boards to prevent any water from coming in from the sides.
  5. Sod cloth board: Placae a 1/4" shim on each corner and screw/nail a 2x6 board even with the top of the platform along the back and 2 sides. Insert the sod cloth in the space between the 2x6 and platform. The sod cloth now will not go upward in raining, windy conditions preventing any wind or rain from coming in the tent.
  6. Guy ropes: Install eyebolts near the bottom of the platform on the sides and back. Tie your guy ropes to the eyebolts. In this procedure, you will keep the ropes out of your way instead of having the ropes being at a 45º from your eaves.
  7. Fly: Tents on platforms are usually set up for long periods of time and a fly is recommended. A fly protects the tent from destructive UV rays, provides another moisture barrier, prevents any stove sparks from burning small hole in our tent roof, and also keps your roof clean form the tree sap, etc
  8. Fly Hitching Rail: Build a hitching rail 6" higher than the eave and 6" away and parallel to the eave to tie your fly ropes to. This hitching rail will preclude having fly ropes around your tent.
  9. Floor: I prefer a loose waterproof floor as it allows the use of a perimeter sill board. The waterproof floor is definitely necessary if there is any possibility that rain water will get inside your tent.
  10. Carpet: You can use indoor/outdoor carpet and keep it dry if you have an effective rain perimeter sill board and rain gap at the front of your tent. Carpets are much more comfortable to walk on than vinyl or wood floors. However, you must have a fireproof material under your stove and 2' around your stove. Carpets are very flammable and extreme caution must be used. Use a carpet at your own risk.
  11. Snowloads: Some individuals want to leave their tents up in the winter. There is no internal frame that can withstand heavy snow loads. I know outfitters that had to leave tents in the backcountry over the winter because they had to leave quickly with their clients due to heavy snowstorms to make it back to their road base camps before the horse trails became impassable. Their tents were torn and frames destroyed when the outfitters retrieved their gear in the spring.
  13. . TENT RIDGE HEIGHTS:
  1. Canvas tents ridge heights can vary approximately 1 foot in different tent model sizes 12x14 and larger. The taller ridge height, with the sharper roof angle, helps rain flow off the roof quicker and snow to be removed from the roof easier.
  2. The higher ridge height also provides more headroom inside the tent along the sidewalls because the angle of the roof is sharperThe major drawback to higher ridge height is that tents with higher ridges are harder to heat. The higher the ridge, the more heat is at/near the ridge line. It is the same principle as if you were trying to heat a house with an 8' ceiling vs a 9' ceiling.

Fly: If you already have a tent and need a fly I will need the following tent info:

  1. Stove jack located in roof
    1. length of tent slope, roof distance from top of ridge to the center of the stove jack
    2. distance from the end wall to the center of the stove jack in the roof
    3. tent roof length
  2. Stove jack not located in roof
    1. length of tent
    2. slope of tent
  3. Floor: If you already have a tent and just need a loose floor I need the following tent measurements:

length of tent
width of tent

RECOMMENDATIONS:

1. NO STOVEJACK IN SIDE WALLS OR END WALLS: I do not recommend a stove jack in the side wall or end wall due to numerous drawbacks. It should be noted that a stove jack in the side wall or end wall requires an adjustable elbow on the stove and an adjustable elbow on the outside of the tent to allow the stovepipe to go straight up for a better draft. Additionally, there must be some type of metal support on the outside of the tent to support the stove pipe. Otherwise your stove pipe will get loose and smoke will get in your tent. Another drawback is that you cannot use nesting pipe when you use an elbow to turn the stove pipe upwards on the outside of your tent. Remember, nesting pipe has a different size of pipe for each pipe section. If you decide to put your stove jack in the sidewall or endwall, I recommend you use metal screws to attach the stove pipe to the stove to prevent the stove pipe coming loose at the stove.

2. DO NOT ALLOW SNOW TO ACCUMULATE ON TENT OR HAVE A WATER TROUGH NEAR THE ROOF EAVE: Always knock off snow to isure your frame or roof is damaged. Keep you tent roof tight by adjusting guy ropes to prevent a rain water trough on the roof near the eaves.

3. FLOORS: I recommend heavy vinyl floors over canvas or relite. A canvas waterproof floor will eventually soak up water. A relite floor is thin and can be punctured easier than a vinyl floor. Put your sod cloth to the inside and put your floor on top of the sod cloth which forces any water under the floor and helps keep insects out.

4. SEWN IN FLOOR: I do not like sewn in floors in canvas tents due to the increased difficulty of setting up a frame while you are inside the tent. However, under certain circumstances a sewn in floor is recommended:

  1. Snakes. Certain parts of the country have lots of snakes. The sewn in floor is one way to help keep a snake out of your tent.
  2. Mice. At night mice will come inside of your tent for food. I set 6 mouse traps at night to reduce the mouse problem. However if you are a light sleepr the mouse traps going off at night might wake up. Sewn in floor helps prevents mice coming in the tent.Wife or children that are very concerned about insects, snakes, mice etc.
  3. Setting up your tent for long periods of time.

5. STORING YOUR TENT: Never store your tent wet or damp. All tents will mildew mildew and rot if the tent is stored wet or damp regardless if your tent is water mildew treated.

6. FLY. Never let your tent fly lay on the tent roof. A fly should rest on the ridge and have a gap of 3-4 inches at the eave allowing airflow to dry out any moisture on the tent roof. If you let the fly lay on the tent roof you increase the liklihood of mildew forming on your tent roof. And increases the probability of a spark burning through the fly and then burning a hole in your roof.

7. FLY ROPE AND EAVE ROPE COMBINED STAKE: Have 5/8" rebar cut in 2 feet sections. Weld a 3" T one inch from the top and another 3" T welded 6" T from the top.Tie the tent guy ropes to the bottom T and the fly rope to the top T which gives you a gap between the fly and the tent.

8. STOVE PIPE ABOVE RIDGE OF TENT: It is best to have your stove pipe long enough to extend 6 inches or more above the tent ridge. Having the stove pipe above the tent ridge allows the wind coming from any direction to blow sparks away the tent roof thus reducing the possibilty of spark holes being burnt in the roof.

9. FIRE TREATED CANVAS TENTS VS STOVE SPARKS: Stove sparks will even burn holes in a fire treated roof. A spark arrestor will prevent most sparks from reaching your roof. However, the only 100 per cent method to prevent spark holes in a tent roof is to use a fly to protect the roof.

10. REDUCE SMOKE ODOR IN YOUR HUNTING TENT: To reduce smoke in your tent always open the stove door slowly with the damper wide open. If you open the stove door quickly , the smoke is drawn into the tent.

11. CREOSOTE BUILD UP IN YOUR STOVE PIPE: The more you damper the stove pipe down or/and reduce the air intake on the stove door the more creosote build up you will have in the stove pipe and spark arrestor. If you get too much creosote in the stove pipe you can possibly have a fire in your stove pipe. When breaking camp, remove the creosote in your stove pipe by gently banging the stove pipes together to loosen the creosote. It is normal to periodically clean the spark arrestor every 2-3 days.

13. MILDEW AND ROT: Storing a wet canvas tent will cause the canvas to rot regardless of what type of water mildew treatment you have on your canvas. If setting up your tent outside to dry after hunting season is not an option, I strongly suggest you set the tent up in a garage or work shop until it is completely dry.

14. PYRAMID TENT: Using a pyramid tent in heavy snow it is best use a rope through the roof opening and tie the rope to a tree limb which will reduce the amount of snow on the tent. Remember, the snow load on a pyramid tent has all the pressure on the pyramid peak.

15. HEAVY SNOWS: To reduce the possibility of frame failure during heavy snow loads it is a good idea to use a lodgepole to support the middle of the ridge.

16. DRYING RACK INSIDE TENT: Tie 2 loops about 8' in diameter 7' apart to your ridge frame. Slide a 8' piece of conduit through the loops. This 8' conduit makes a good drying rack as your stove heat rises to your tent ceiling.

17. STOVE SIZE: Buy a stove 1 size larger than recommended for your tent. You can always put less wood in a large stove if high heat is not required. However , the large stove gives you the capability for much more heat in very cold and wet conditions.

 

FOR INDIVIDUALS PACKING IN ON PACK ANIMALS - SETTING UP CANVAS TENTS USING LODGEPOLES:

Individuals packing in on pack animals sometimes use a lodgepole frame to save weight and space instead of packing in tent frames. General recommendations and guidance:

  1. Use a tent with a reinforced tent ridge/extra layer of canvas. It is very easy to poke a hole or tear the tent ridge if you do not properly remove/smooth the lodge branch even with the lodge pole.
  2. When selecting poles for pitching a tent, try to use poles that do not taper much. A minimum diameter of four inches (on the smaller end) is preferable. Young lodgepole pine trees make ideal poles for this purpose.
  3. Use the best pole (clean and strong) for the ridgepole as it takes the most stress and is the most difficult to change should something go wrong.
  4. When attaching one pole to another, lash them together with rope and or drive pole spikes through them.
  5. The best way to tightly secure the two poles forming the "A" of the lodge pole frame is to lay two poles on the ground on top of one another. Tie a rope tightly around both small ends of the lodgepoles about one foot from the top. Then spread out the two poles to form an "A". You can secure the "A" poles much tighter this way than making an "A" from the two poles then tying the two poles together.
  6. If you are likely to us the same campsite in the future you should cache the poles when breaking camp. It is best to tie your lodgepole frames up against a tree to get them off the ground, If you leave the poles on the ground they will start to rot and weaken much quicker. The poles can give you many years of service if you care for them.

FRAMES:

  1. Most frames have two piece rafters and two piece tent lengths. If you have a 8' bed on your pick up, tape the 2 pieces of your tent frame lengths and rafters together. Taping together the two pieces of the tent lengths and rafters together reduces the number of poles about in half and significantly reduces tent set up and take down time.
  2. Frame bags make transporting and storing tent frames much easier.
  3. If you fold the tent sod cloth to the inside of the tent, place something under the legs so the legs will not wear a hole in the sod cloth. Use patio chair leg caps or small 6"x6" carpet remnants works fine.
  4. A tent should never fit tight on a tent frame. A tight fit puts pressue on the seams and zippers and will eventually cause damage.

Hunting Tent Frames:

I recommend an internal frame as it provides the most roof support. Frames that do not have rafters, such as the A-frame, lodgepole and elk frame, put much more pressure and weight under snowloads on the tent ridge and eaves where guy ropes are tied to the grommets or d-rings. Canvas Tents with significant snowloads have a much higher probability of tearing or splitting when an internal frame is not used.

 

 

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