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Three sizes of the Yukon Stoves- front view
Three sizes of Yukon Stoves- back view
Yukon Stove
Air intake adjuster

Stainless steel water tank
Stainless steeel water tank
Spark Arrestor and Rain Cap
Spark Arrestor and Rain Cap

Four Sections Nesting Pipe
Nesting Pipe - sections inside one another
Four Sections Completly Nesting Pipe

$50 DISCOUNT ON WILDERNESS WOOD CAMPING STOVES WHEN PURCHASED WITH A WILDERNESS OR MONTANA TENT

1/8 th inch steel - extra thickness prevents warpage.

GASKET ON DOOR FOR AN AIRTIGHT STOVE. Airtight stove allows for longer burn times and controls rate of burn better.

• Welded heavy-gauge hot rolled steel construction.
• All stove accessories fit inside firebox except Yukon 1.
• Round/cylinder design helps prevent warping.
• 1" grid/braces underneath stove top to insure stove top does not warp.
• Strong - quality welds to insure airtight design.
• of Wilderness wall tent stoves.
• Rain cap with spark arrestor. Prevents rain and snow going into stove pipe. Much better than cheap wire mesh spark arrestors on most stoves.
• Large adjustable air intake on door allows a hotter fire when needed on cold nights. Baffle hehind air intake on door prevents any sparks from shooting out the air intake opening into the tent.
• Legs are heavy round pipe with threads that screw into stove which helps level stove.
• 5" nesting stove pipe, 7' 8" long - smallest piece fits into next larger size, end of pipe is 6".
• Stove pipe is long enough to have pipe about 1 foot above tent ridge to allow wind to blow sparks away from your tent. Most other camp wood stoves only have 6' 5" length of pipe.
• A 5" standard oval stove jack will accommodate Wilderness Camp Wood Stoves 5" nesting stove pipe.
• Nesting stove pipe with welded seam, eliminates smoke leakage.
• Warming trays - 25"L x 8"w, which can fit on either side of stove.
• Stainless steel 3 gallon water tank - can fit on either side of stove.
• Legs are 18" long. Which makes the stove top 6" higher than other stoves. Easier to cook on and easier to add wood.
• Quality door and latch designed for airtight firebox which allows for controlled burn.
• GRATE is available in the deluxe package. Grate is designed for stove when burning coal. Grate can also be used for burning wood as grate allows more air at the bottom of the wood creating a hotter fire. .
• Stove pipe opening is recessed to make packing in on horses easier.
• Air intake on door has a metal plate behind it to prevent sparks from popping out the air intake holes.
• STOVE SET UP INSTRUCTIONS ARE AT TENT STOVE INFO GUIDE.

RECOMMENDATION:

1. We designed The Yukon Wood Camping Stove and it is quality stove.
2. The The Yukon II stove is 32% larger than the Yukon I model and only costs $50 more. The Yukon II tent stove will provide significantly more heat and will hold heat much longer than the Yukon I. If you are unsure of which stove to purchase or like longer burning and more heating capability - the Yukon III is recommended. The Yukon III will burn all night with quality dry hard wood.

YUKON WOOD CAMPING STOVE CHARACTERISTICS

CAUTION: Do not place a stove on any flammable surface.
A fire proof 3' x 4' mat is available for $35.

Photo-Click to enlarge	Item	Description	Price	Shipping	Order
	FIREPROOF MAT FOR UNDER STOVE 3' X 4'	FREE SHIPPING WHEN ORDERED WITH WILDERNESS TENT OR WILDERNESS OR YUKON STOVE	$35	$15

SAFETY: ALL SPARK ARRESTORS WILL BECOME CLOGGED WITH ASH AND SOOT. REMEMBER TO CHECK YOUR SPARK ARRESTOR DAILY AND CLEAN SPARK ARRESTOR AS REQUIRED. USING SOFT WOOD AND LOWER TEMPERATURE STOVE BURNS WILL CAUSE THE SPARK ARRESTOR TO BE CLOGGED SOONER. A CLOGGED SPARK ARRESTOR WILL CAUSE SMOKE TO ESCAPE FROM THE STOVE DOOR INTAKE AND IN EXTREME CASES, A STOVE PIPE FIRE.

CURING YOUR STOVE

CURING simply means baking your paint onto the stove. Always, always do the curing/first burn of your camp wood stove stove outside of your tent, preferrably In your back yard. During the first burn there will be smoke and a very strong odor.You do not want this smell permeating the canvas in your tent. You and the tent will both have the smell of burnt paint.

Start your fire and fill your stove full of wood. Adjust the air intake on the stove door 1/2 open. The stove needs to burn at 350 degrees for 3 hours to fully cure the paint. If you build too hot of a fire initially you will burn the paint off before the paint cures on your stove.

STOVE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

LEGS: Thread legs into leg inserts (bottom of stove). Hand tighten. Place stove in desired location and level before burning. To level, push legs into ground. Do not place objects under legs to shim stove up. This can make the stove unstable. Lubricate leg threads at least once a year (spray on lubricants work best)

STOVE PIPE: The stove pipe design allows all five sections of pipe to nest inside each other for ease of packing. Each pipe section is tapered, graduating from 5"(pipe section #1) to slightly larger each section. To assemble, stand pipe upright with crimped end down. Remove the #1 section of pipe (smallest) from inside set. Place crimped end inside stove ring (or elbow if needed). Pull pipe #2 out and insert crimped end into top of pipe section #1. Repeat process until all four pipe joints are assembled . It is recommended that you support your pipe (if going out the sidewall). Windy conditions can cause the pipe to work itself out. A sheet metal screw in each section can help prevent the pipe from pulling apart.

T-CAP: We recommend the use of a T-cap with spark arrestor at all times. The spark arrester keeps large pieces of soot and ash from coming out of the end of the pipe. The T-cap top will keep wind from blowing down the pipe and puffing smoke into your tent (T section of cap should be turned in opposite direction of the wind so it can not blow directly into pipe). The T-cap with spark arrestor is placed in the end of the last section of pipe (mesh screen goes into pipe, T section rests on top of pipe). If the T-cap is too loose inside the pipe, gently pull and stretch mesh portion. T-cap with spark arrestor will eventually get plugged. T-cap must be removed from end of pipe periodically (use protective leather gloves) and tapped on hard surface to prevent/remove creosote build up. If t-Cap gets plugged, the stove will not draw properly.

WATER TANK: The stainless water tank is designed to hang on either side of stove. Set tank down over the flat flange integrated onto either side of stove. Water faucet is transported assembled inside the water tank (to prevent damage in shipment). Before use, remove faucet from inside of tank and place on the outside. Make sure the supplied O-ring is placed inside of the tank. Tighten by hand only. IMPORTANT - water must be kept in tank at all times when tank is attached to the stove. If allowed to run dry, you run the risk of destroying the faucet and/or warping the tank. We recommend removing the water tank at night during sleeping hours. Use protective leather gloves to handle the hot tank. Water will get VERY hot, so please be careful. Wash tank thoroughly before using. SIDE TRAY: The side tray may be mounted on either side or both sides of the stove. Trays mount by inserting pins into holes on top edge of stove.

CURING
Burn the stove thoroughly outside of your tent for the first time. The galvanized pipe and elbow and the painted surfaces of the stove will smoke slightly and give off a nasty odor during the first burn. We recommend setting up the stove in your back yard and fully burning it before use in the field. Burn at one-half to three-quarter damper. Once the fire is going, close the door and try not to touch it for at least two hours. The stove paint needs to cure (the paint is very susceptible before & during curing). If you must initiate first burn in your tent, simply open all doors and windows for at least two hours during the first time.

USE
The burn times and BTU outputs were derived from using dry Tamarack wood during burn test. Any variety of wood may be used for fuel in the stove. Different types of wood will more than likely give you different burn times and heat outputs. Keep in mind that dry wood times burns much more efficiently than green wood. Green wood will create more creosote in the pipe and spark arrestor and will put off less heat than cured firewood. Creosote will also build up when stove is burned at a low damper setting for long periods of time. Try to burn on a medium0high setting one or two times a day to burn and creosote build up in the pipe. DO NOT ALLOW STOVE TO BURN SO HOT IT TURNS RED!! T-cap with spark arrestor must be removed from end of pipe (use protective leather gloves) and tapped on a hard surface to prevent/remove creosote build up. If T-cap gets plugged, the stove will not draw properly. Always crack the door slightly for a few seconds to allow the stove additional draw before fully opening door. The stove can build up large amounts of smoke inside and needs the extra draw to pull it out the pipe. You can build a fire directly on the floor of the stove without fear of burning through, however, the stove will perform best with a bed of dirt/ash in it.

When starting a fire, use small pieces of dry kindling and crack door open until fire gets going well(this is very important). Once fire is going, YOU MUST close the door. Place damper in full open position until stove gets up to temperature (then damper as desired). Keeping the door open for too long can cause damage to the stove. Only open it enough to get the fire going. For the most heat: use smaller pieces of split wood with damper fully open.
For longer burn times: Use large pieces of wood with damper 1/8 to ¼ open (best at night)

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